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Volume 28 • Issue No. 3 •
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  Casting Flies from a Kayak

Fish beware: kayaks and fly fishing make lethal combination By David Ison

Few things in life make as much sense as fly fishing from a kayak. Both offer a degree of stealth and fly fishing is most effective on fish that dwell in waters too shallow for other craft. You can expand your horizons—and dinner menus—through fly fishing from a kayak.

Considering the vast number of species that can be caught with flies, and the abundance of places to launch a kayak, the possibilities for fly fishing from a kayak are boundless. Most anglers use a kayak to travel quickly and silently to the flats, and stand to cast. But sometimes you’ll stalk fish in water too deep for wading, and you’ll have to cast from the kayak. If you must stand to cast, you can add a stabilizing outrigger to your kayak. The easiest way to handle this casting quandary, however, is simply to cast while seated. Press your lower back into the seat for stability and leverage, and use a smooth casting rhythm that won't rock the boat.

Before you hit the local shop to buy gear, ask yourself what kinds of fish you want to pursue, and where you’re likely to find them. You’ll want a fly rod suited to your quarry. Like golf clubs, fly rods are numbered according to their weight and purpose. The bigger the fish you’re after, the higher your rod weight should be. Rods weighted one to five are good for small to medium-sized trout. A six- or seven-weight rod works for bass and larger trout, while an 11- or 12-weight is the right tool to catch bigger species, such as tarpon. To land reds, bonefish and snook, you’ll want an eight or a nine.

The next thing to decide is length. Fly rods range from about 6.5 to 15 feet. Longer rods provide more power to “shoot” lines—to push flies farther, especially when casting into the wind—and allow more effective use of larger flies. Though personal preference has a lot to do with it, keep a few things in mind. Short rods are designed for tight quarters and short casts. Long rods, also called Spey rods, are not really appropriate for the type of fishing most kayakers will want to do. Most kayak anglers are happiest with something between 8.5 and 9.5 feet.

Once you’ve found a rod, decide on the reel and line. Both are organized using the same number system as the rods. Reels are normally made to fit two weights of rods, for example an 8/9 reel will fit both eight- and nine-weight rods. Fly line categorization is slightly more complicated. Some lines float, some sink, and others have more weight toward the tip end (also referred to as weight forward or shooting tip). These various attributes are indicated by numbers and letters. For example, WF-9-F means a weight forward, nine-weight, floating line. Beginning fly fishers will probably be happiest with a weight-forward floating line, because it’s easier to cast and allows the angler to keep an eye on the line. Most people match all the numbers and leave it at that, while others feel nothing is more sacrosanct than tweaking the feel of their rod by balancing it with different line and reel weights. Try the entire outfit before buying, preferably by taking casting lessons. Don’t just cast the rod you are considering, cast it with the reels you’re considering as well.

With rod, reel and line in hand, you’re ready to throw flies at fish—just as soon as you’ve chosen your flies. Local anglers are the best source of advice about fly choice, but if they’re not telling, choose basic flies designed for the type of fish you’re hunting. For example, deceivers and clousers, which imitate baitfish, will get reactions from salt-water fish. You’ll also need to choose a leader appropriate for the type of fish you’re after. The thin leaders used for river trout will never be seen again if a salt water prowler strikes your fly. Most leaders are monofilament, but if you chase fish with teeth you’ll need wire leaders.

Once you have all your toys together, place them on your kayak. You’ll want at least one holder to keep your rod close. External rod holders are best because fly rods don’t fit well into flush-mounted holders. Attach a leash to the rod itself, to keep that big red from towing it to Bermuda. Place all your flies and extra tackle in floating carriers (don’t ask me how I know this). Keep everything you might need within arm’s reach. When stalking a protruding tail, don’t splash and bang about. And take a small anchor or rope to keep your kayak from floating away while you’re wading.

Now that you’ve assembled the right gear, you’re ready to start fly fishing from your kayak. After a trip or two, you’ll fine-tune your kayak and gear so that further expeditions run more smoothly. Just be sure to always secure on-deck items. Nothing ruins a day of fishing faster than a couple of hundred dollars going overboard. But once you experience the synergy of kayaks and fly fishing, your biggest worry will likely be one I can’t help you with—finding more time to do it.

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